The public BDSM scene provides us all with a surprising new freedom, wherein we are permitted and encouraged to enjoy ourselves and our partners in sexy, kinky, intense and unusual ways, and wherein we are encouraged to present ourselves as we wish. Because we have invented a whole new set of social mores, it can be confusing to sort out what is actually expected of us; what it takes to be considered polite company. I hope this document may help.

 

Read the party rules when you get to the event.

This is the easiest item of etiquette, and also the most useful. These rules are generally in place for three reasons:

  • To uphold each partygoer’s right to physical safety, reasonable privacy, timely use of equipment, room to swing a cat, freedom from being interrupted during a good time, and to some small degree, emotional safety.
  • To cover the venue-renting / safety-loving / legal-issue / insurance-related butts of the party throwers so they can continue to give parties.
  • To make rule-givers feel powerful and in control. (Just kidding on this last one)

Safety and Consent:

  • Take no for an answer; take stop for an order. Everything we do should be done with consent — even play that appears non-consensual to the outsider’s eye.
  • The party safeword varies, but “SAFEWORD” will always work.
  • Know how equipment works, and check to make sure everything’s in order before you start to play, and again as you leave the station.
  • Don’t attempt anything far outside your skill level without getting a bit of advice or help or mentoring or experience or education.

Privacy

  • Every person who enters the dungeon should feel safe to enjoy themselves, including feeling that one is safe from being outed on a social networking site to all one’s co-workers. Please don’t bring or use cameras, cel phones, or any recording devices. Be aware that even showing these items in many dungeons will get you tossed.
  • The expectation of privacy includes gossip (both inside and outside of dungeons). When, later, you’re recounting the tale of a fantastic scene you witnessed, don’t talk about people in a way that could identify them.
  • If the dungeon event is invitation-only, keep the event, the location, the time, and the guest list to yourself.

Care for the Dungeon, the Venue and the Party Throwers

Be a good guest so event organizers find it worthwhile to continue their efforts. Here’s how:

  • Please contain your body fluids! Use a blanket, dropcloth, tarp, plastic sheet or towel. Be careful with drinks/food, etc, too. Wipe furniture down with cleaning solution after touching it with skin. The volunteers who tear down the equipment are going to feel mighty unfortunate if they put their hands in something sticky. So do clean up after your scene. And use the trash cans/recycle bins.
  • Keep the space rentable for future dungeon events: don’t damage the venue, such as by tying ropes to pipes or adding your own hooks.
  • Whether coming to or leaving the venue, or standing outside smoking, please keep your public behaviour, speech and clothing as discreet as the neighbourhood calls for. Don’t scare the neighbours into calling the cops or complaining about the event to the venue owners, or the event organizers are going to spend another month looking for a new place to throw a party.
  • Are you doing fireplay? Is fireplay allowed? Are you sure? Really sure? Jeepers, where’s your fire extinguisher?

Dungeon Monitors (DMs) are dying to be helpful.

  • If you have problems or questions or need anything, ask a DM.
  • If you’re worried about something you see, ask a DM.
  • Need help with equipment, or need to know if you can move it? DM.
  • Is your scene complicated, crazy, scary to others, or messy? Get the DM on your side. Let them know in advance.
  • If a DM asks you to do something, do it. If you need to appeal, do it later, politely, after you’ve complied with the DM’s request.

This point of etiquette is for the DMs of the world:

  • Be aware that it’s easy for a DM to look like a cop or a creep to a player who’s in the middle of a good time. Both are a buzzkill. Take care to minimize your social impact. Yeah, I’m talking to you, big hairy man in a high-vis Dungeon Monitor vest standing 3 feet from those women who are fucking.

How Do You Meet Someone?

Most folks are happy to talk to polite strangers. It’s a party, and kinky folks are generally a friendly bunch. Whether you’re dying to ask someone where they got their corset, or about the finer points of a skill they just displayed, or to compliment them on a scene, or to just get to know them, these few guidelines might help ease your way.

Looking to play? I won’t cover Dating 101 here, but all the usual guidelines of respect and politeness apply…

  • Make no assumptions about role, or about anything at all — not gender, not orientation, not willingness to play.
  • Socially, we are all equals, until we negotiate and agree upon a power dynamic. Thus: Her bottom is not everyone’s universal bottom, and his top does not require honorifics from everyone in the room. Treat everyone politely, but don’t feel like you have to be in scene space with everyone based on their preferred place in the sexual power dynamic.
  • We are all equals, but be aware of folks who are in bottomspace (subspace, post-bottoming-play). It’s considered dastardly rude to interfere with someone in this tender frame of mind.
  • Exact social mores vary from city to city, from sub-set to sub-set, and from party to party, and vary over time. Some events may tend towards high-protocol dominance/submission, others are dance parties with a dungeon area on the side. You can often, in a social quandary, ask someone dungeon-experienced how to behave. “Say, would it be appropriate to go over there and smack her ass, then introduce myself? No? Alright then.”

What about if the person I want to talk to is in scene/actively playing?

  • If you want to initiate a conversation (verbal or non-verbal) with someone currently in scene, don’t. Ever.
  • After folks have been playing, wait until after they’ve done aftercare. Wait until you see them start to resume normal social behaviour. As a bottom may be still feeling a bit raw, talk to the top first, and ask if you can speak to them. Like this: “May I ask you a question about the scene I saw you do?” “Is now an okay time to say hi and introduce myself?” “May I tell your bottom how much I admire his bravery/ boot-licking technique / jockstrap?”

Their Scene: How to Behave

  • Do watch scenes, and enjoy the sight of people having a good (hot)(intense)(cathartic)(scary) time.
  • Respect others’ scenes by giving them space to unfold.
  • Don’t play backswing dodgeball — give ‘em physical room.
  • Give ‘em room in an auditory way. Keep quiet-ish around a scene in progress. Don’t intrude, offer advice, offer yourself or make loud comments
  • Give ‘em personal emotional space, too. Don’t make eye contact –especially with the bottom– and don’t loom over a scene.
  • Don’t touch anyone’s toys, equipment, collar, bottom or top without permission.
  • Don’t mock anyone’s outfit, style, kink, or scene–unless you’ve been invited to do public humiliation with the players.
  • If someone else’s scene bothers you, feel free to turn 180 degrees and acquire a whole new view of the dungeon. (Or talk to a DM if you’re truly alarmed.)

Your Scene: How to Behave

  • Play at your own level. This is not the BDSM Olympics, and you are not going to be judged for liking bondage but not suspension, spanking but not bullwhipping, or D/s but not pain play. Conversely, if you want and can organize an extreme scene where you’re fisted by 89 people in an evening, do that, and glory in it. The scale is calibrated by how much you and your playpartners are enjoying yourselves, not by how the onlookers feel about the show.
  • Bring a water bottle or two. Everything’s a little easier to take when well-hydrated, and it’s a thoughtful touch to offer to your bottom or your top.
  • Expect to participate in aftercare after a scene. Some folks don’t need/want it, and if so will generally say so up front.
  • In most dungeons, safer sex (barriers, condoms, gloves) is the polite way to go. Some dungeons don’t allow sex. Most don’t agree on the definition of sex. Better check with the DM.
  • Some dungeons don’t allow highly emotionally charged scenes — Nazi role play, rape play, face-punching, guns and weapons play, and so forth. Even if allowed, be aware of the potential impact these scenes may have on others.
  • Stinky, messy scenes may be allowed. If they are, do your level best to minimize the splash zone.
  • Don’t include common allergens such as pepper spray, etc, in your public scene. Your good time should not be someone else’s cue to call an ambulance.
  • A scene already ongoing has a certain primacy. If you can avoid setting up your rambunctious multi-player puppy wrestling scene right beside the couple halfway through their emotional public collaring ceremony, well, that’d be thoughtful.
  • Dungeons vary on noise customs. Check in before setting up for loud laughing / loud screaming / brass instrument playing.
  • Tops, please remain responsible for any bottoms you have put in a blissed-out state, such as wandering around with needles sticking out. (Naked points. So rude in a crowd, yes?)
  • If the dungeon is busy, or you’re on a popular piece of equipment and know there’s others waiting, please keep your scene compact in length (an hour or so). There’s wiggle room here, and the DM is your friend in trying to figure out what’s reasonable.

Think Before You Idiot.

  • You share the space with other folks of various shapes, ages, class, abilities, genders, colours, cultures, orientations, and lived experience. It is NOT their job to teach you about themselves or educate you in how to share space respectfully. It’s your job to do your own homework.

General Care of the Social Aspects

Or, things I didn’t have a perfectly-fitting heading for:

  • In almost every dungeon in the known universe: No hard drugs, no drunkenness. These spoil the enjoyment of some play, impair judgment, and up the level of social-gaffes-per-hour in a staggering way.
  • Most places, solo play ain’t permitted or respected. Solo play is a euphemism for jerking off, as one might do at a peep show.
  • Just like in the schoolyard, boasting and stunting attract attention but not of the friendly kind. Solo whipcracking looks just like jerking off, seen in a certain light. Best not to.
  • If you’re a peripheral member of the BDSM community, and a friend wants to be taken on a field trip to gawk at the freaks, think twice before bringing them. Even exhibitionists generally dislike feeling like animals at the zoo.
  • Casual sitting on equipment–even if it’s not in use–is discouraged. Leave the equipment for folks who’ll want to play on it.
  • What someone’s wearing has no bearing on their experience or skill level or the seriousness of their kink. Clothing means nothing except that the wearer wishes to present themselves a certain way, or is trying to comply with a dress code, if there is one.
  • Do your emotional homework before entering the BDSM community. Unresolved issues are so damn messy.
  • Online experience does not translate well to real life, nor does online protocol apply in a real life dungeon.
  • Negotiation takes many forms, from a barely verbal quick flirtation to detailed spreadsheets and months of consultation that finally coalesce into a scene. Don’t assume that everything has to be negotiated with a team of lawyers, but also understand that sparse negotiation can lead to misunderstandings.
  • Try to be automatically courteous, kind, and give the benefit of the doubt in all situations. Most folks are just trying to get along and enjoy themselves. Just like you.

 

Document version: 0.90-Beta March 2010 http://elainemiller.com/dungeon-etiquette

 

Dungeon Etiquette – A Primer by Elaine Miller (downloadable PDF)

Creative Commons License
Dungeon Etiquette: A Primer by Elaine Miller is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-No Derivative Works 2.5 Canada License.
Based on a work at elainemiller.com.

 

These instructions are text-only. One of these days I’ll get around to taking pics.

Read everything before you actually start, so you know what decisions you’ll be making.

Materials You Need:

a few rolls of duct tape
a non-sticky bodysheath, like a tight cotton T
heavy-duty scissors or shears
something for boning material
a helper-human
a hole-punching tool
lacing material

optional but recommended: a lot of eyelets and an eyelet-pounding tool or setter.

First Step: Wrap yourself

Put the tshirt or tank, or bodysheath on over your naked self. Say goodbye to it, you’ll never see it whole again. Decide where your corset will go on your body, and mark it on the sheath.

Second Step: Boning

Cut the boning material to the correct length, and tape it to the sheath.

I used inch-wide strips of the vinyl stuff that goes along the bottom of a wall in an office building. Six strips seemed to work for me, running vertically. If my body, seen from a vantage point directly above my head, were a clock face, with my nose pointing to midnight, the strips would have been placed at 10, 2, 3, 4, 8 and 9.

Third Step: Wrapping

Here’s where your helper human will come in handy.

Take duct tape, and wrap it tight around your body. Snug, not pinching. Keep wrapping. You’ll need several layers to be firm enough. Break the tape and wrap in the other direction frequently, because one-way wrapping will make your assets shift in a wierd twisty way.
Make the last, top layer as smooth as you can, or heck, tape a design if you like. Make sure the upper and lower edges are even.

Fourth Step: Removal

Take your shears, and cut the corset, and the now integral sheath, off your body. Use a very straight line down either your spine, or straight down your front.

Fifth Step: Make it two sizes smaller

On both sides of the slice line where you cut the corset, trim away 1 inch (or 2 or more) of the duct tape material. If you wanna get fancy, you can take slightly more corset away near the waistline, so the finished, cinched corset is more pinchy in the waist area.

Sixth Step: Finish the Edges

Using more duct tape, finish the edges with a couple layers of tape folded over the top and bottom edges of the corset, and the longitudinal cut edges.

Seventh Step: Make the Lace Holes

Using a hole-punching thingy, punch holes down both sides of the longitudinal cut. Make sure both sides match exactly in hole placement, so you’ll end up with an even number of holes.

If you’re wanting the corset to last more than one or two wearings, hammer eyelets / grommets into the holes you made.

Eighth and Final Step

If your lacing material is long enough run laces though the holes in the corset, step into it, and tight it up tight.
If you only have just enough lacing material, you’ll need help lacing it up while it’s actually on your body.

Final Notes

Duct tape comes in some pretty fancy colours. Do experiment.

Hardcore corset lovers may wish to open the front *and* the back to lacing.

Try it for size before punching all those holes and placing all those eyelets.

Use a thicker kinda material for the sheath-thing. If you use really thin or lace-like material, the tape glue will seep through and getcha.

 

Now this ain’t sayin’ I’m cheap, but I’m Scots through and through, and when I can make a whip for almost nothing, it pains me to pay someone $200 for the same product. Here’s directions for the marginally craft-enabled.

Make-Your-Own-Flogger Directions

A good “quick-and-easy-and-cheap; even” flogger. I’ve been trying to get these directions down as text… hard to draw a pic in ascii text. Let me know if any point is unclear.

Basically you need:
doweling or some such handle material (about 9-12 inches)
maybe a strip of lead for the non-tail end of the handle, maybe not..
glue (rubber cement)
upholstery tacks (or broad-headed screw/nails in a pinch)
a bunch of soft leather (like an old coat).

You need a square of leather as long as your desired flogger tails, (I’ve seen as short as 14″, as long as 30″. I’d start with 16-18″ to keep it manageable.) plus about two inches, and as wide as you can make it (the wider the piece of leather, the more tails you’re going to have.) You also can put two leather squares side by side, (try different colours!) but don’t try to make a *whole bunch* of different pieces go together unless you’re better at this than I am.

You can wind the same leather or a different one around the handle, (or not at all, depending on how you want your handle to look). Upholstery tacks and glue work well here, too. Some folks use braiding techniques, or cross-stitching for decoration and grip, but if I wanted that much of a professional looking flogger, I might then go and buy one… Unless I had more time on my hand than I actually do.

Cut the strips about 1/2 inch wide, (1/4 to 3/4 inch is a common range) as desired, but don’t cut them *off* the chunk of leather. Leave a strip of two inches uncut all the way along the top, and slice the tails only that far… like fringe for chaps, except longer… You know you have enough when you temporarily wind the two-inch strip part of the tails fringe around the last two inches of the flogger handle and it feels like you have enough. (some folks like only a few tails, some like a whole bunch…)

When you ‘ve completed the handle (however you want it to look and feel) fix the tails on by anchoring one end (staple, tack, glue) and winding/gluing the strip on *tightly*. Drive a few upholstery tacks through the resulting knob, spacing them around the circumference.

It’s good (IMO) to have a strip wrapped around the non-tailed end of the handle, (about a foot long, one inch-wide strip forming a kind of knob) to hold the keeper loop *and* to stop the flogger from slipping out of your hands. If you want to counter-weight the flogger, this is where you’d hide the weight. Wrap and fix it the same way you do the tails-end, for aesthetic appeal.

Free end of tails can be square-cut, or at a 45 degree angle, depending. Leather oil will add weight, often improve the way it flies… and the more uniformly you are able to cut the flogger tails, width and length, the better it will fly. The more tails, the more thud. The slicker the surface, the stingier it gets. Ditto if the tails are very thin. Experiment with leathers and colours and lengths and weights and widths, and .. and.. have fun making your whip!

 

Here’s some instructions for making a good, wearable dick harness. It’s somewhat awkward without pictures. If people email me and bug me, I’ll remember to take a few digital pics and slap ‘em up here.

Update — August 2008. I took pictures. Hooray! The discolouration on the green strap below is water, as I couldn’t seem to wait for it to dry completely after laundering.

Do-it-Yourself Stretchy Dil Harness

Ingredients

– Stretchy waistband elastic, 3″ (or more) wide (yes, it comes in black, at your local fabric store)
– Stretchy waistband elastic, 1″ (or more) wide
– 6 regular size snaps (about 1/2 inch or larger) (found in handy little kit in same local fabric store) (instructions in package)
– bit of glue, or needle and thread, or interfacing or some such
– piece of leather (or leather-wannabe like thick rubber) about the shape and size of a bicycle seat (maybe 6″ – 7″ long, 5 – 6″ wide at the top, 2″ wide at the bottom)
– knife or scissors, an awl or hole punch

How to

The leather piece is the codpiece/dil-holder, and the elastic stuff will snap to it, and hold it in place.
The thick elastic goes around your waist, pulled snug, with two snaps on each end of the band attaching to the corresponding two snapettes at each side of the codpiece. (the wide part of the leather shape goes at the top, the skinnier part at the bottom.)
Two straps of the thinner elastic get stitched on to the waistband at the back, one at each side. (Sorta like a jockstrap) These straps cup the buttcheeks, get pulled between your legs, and snap (with one snap each) to the bottom of the codpiece.

What it looks like

If the codpiece were a clock face, the snaps woud be at 1, 2….5,7….10,11 o’clock. All the “snappy” parts face up when it lies flat, face down.

You’ll need to put a hole, corresponding to your preferred dil size, in the codpiece. Best place for it seems to be fairly close to the bottom, or small end, of the codpiece.

The strap part, sewn together, also has all snap attachments facing the same way when you lie it flat. You’ll have one broad strap with two smaller straps sewn perpedicularly at about 1/2 and 2/3 of the length of the bigger strap.

Hints

Tight is good.

You’ll need to reinforce the elastic material where you put the snaps through it, or it will fray something awful. Interfacing, glue-and-leather-strip, zig-zag stitching… I’m still experimenting.

Fit it to youself with strong safetypins through the straps first, then cut and sew.

Strap can be laundered easily by detaching it and chucking it in the washing machine. (Yay!)

 

SM vs Abuse: Compare and Contrast

SM is done for positive reasons: personal growth and erotic pleasure. It requires the knowledgeable consent of each player, and is often carefully negotiated beforehand. In SM, the situation is controlled. SM play stops immediately when someone uses a safeword, in any scene, at any time, for any reason–physical or emotional. SM players do not make an assumption of the right to control another’s behavior. Players follow guidelines for safe, responsible, positive play, and to act out each player’s desires. After play, both parties feel fulfilled. Good SM play brings players closer together, and is often initiated or requested by the bottom. It is done with the support and knowledge of friends and community.

Abuse temporarily satisfies one person’s need to control or hurt. With no rules or agreed limit, abuse is an uncontrolled act, with out-of-control emotions. A victim of abuse has no rights within the relationship, has no control over when abuse ends, and feels used and hurt afterward. The abuser decides what will happen, and does not respond to the needs, desires or limits of the person they abuse. Abusers mistakenly assume their right to control another by virtue of gender, income, or other similar artificial scale. Done in isolation, a dirty secret, abuse divides relationships and fractures trust.

- Elaine Miller, Feb 2001

Note: The wording and arrangement is of the above piece is the product of my own skull-sweat, and much coffee (It’s meant to be the sidebar of a much larger article on BDSM). I read several sources on the web to get some background ideas for this, including LSM NYC’s page, and some of Jay Wiseman’s excellent work. I also, of course, spoke to several players I knew to get feedback, and then wracked my brain to come up with more. If I can think of any more salient points, I’ll weave them in.

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